How to determine watch quality

I buy and have sold hundreds of watches over the years. With China in the market there are some damn fine watches out there super cheap, but there is also some so so stuff and some real crap. So how do you tell what is what? Read and understand the description.
Watches have cases. The cases can be solid stainless steel (best in my opinion for longevity and ease in restoration), plated metal, gold and silver and titanium. Gold is really too heavy, so everyday wear go with two tone, stainless and solid gold, 10 or 14k is fine. Titanium is low weight, strong and feels good on the wrist. But stainless is best in 90% of everyday wear. I avoid plastic now, with so many high quality stainless out there there is no point. Timex makes some great analog digital watches, go for them, they are very tough and extremely water proof. I lean toward analog quartz and automatic self winding watches for my collections. They are reliable and easy to service and hold their value. Too many functions or dials and your either don't need it or its almost impossible to service. I do like my Tissot T-Touch watches, so far so good, both are working fine and very accurate. I just got the battery replacement instructions too.

Back to watch cases, the worst are base metal with thin plating. Timex does a great job with brass and stainless chrome plating, they last years. I have serviced so many cheap replicas and the cases are zinc pot metal with a flash coating of stainless. You can't wear them more than a weak before they rub off and pit. I only use solid stainless in my collections. Just because a caseback is stainless does not mean the case is. When I list my watches I go through the trouble to find out what the cases are made of and state so. The new Disney base metal plated cases are up to Timex standards so they can be worn for years BTW.

Movements, pretty much Swiss ETA, Swiss Ronda and the Japan parts are great and pretty inexpensive. I like ETA, Ronda is excellent too, and the Miyota, Pulsar/Seiko, ISA, Timex they are all great, some movement models are better and repairable but most analog quartz movements are only like $20 or less, so I just replace them now, its faster and its new! ETA and Seiko make some cheap stuff so you need to know what model movement is in the watch. China makes some great automatics, they tend to be very hard to rebuild though, hard to get the gears and springs back, but they are soo inexpensive its often faster to just replace with new at $25 cost! Right now my favorite automatic is the ETA 2824, I have become almost an expert in repairing them. I love the look of Rolex submariners but to be honest the movement and cases are not worth what they charge, Omega is a better bang for the buck. A great watch like a seamaster for an example, the actual parts cost is like $100 for the stainless case, $30 for a sapphire crystal, $20 for a double seal crown and tube, $40 for a stainless band, $30 for a nice dial, maybe $30 for a high quality turning bezel and nice anodized insert, $10 for three nice hands, and $70 for an ETA 2824 automatic movement, add about $10 for various o-ring seals and that’s it for parts cost (about $340). Now double that for labor and overhead ($680) and you see most watches are WAY over priced. You pay for a brand name and nothing more. If there is some gold added, 14k is 14/24 pure so add that in if you know the gold weight. Than diamonds, small stones under 1/8 carat are only $2 to $12 each FYI. So buy with quality parts and a nice look and not by brand only. Solid stainless Timex for everyday and snorkel depths (look for 100 meter rated), Invicta automatics for more formal wear, Omega if you want to splurge, Hamilton is great too and of course Tissot at discount is a fine made watch. Some Russian made are fine as sell, Vostok is a great water tight watch and very inexpensive. So that is my lessons learned in a nutshell. Oh yea, clean your watch once a month, take a tooth brush and hand soap and scrub it, rinse off and dry. You wouldn't believe some of the filthy watches I have been given to repair, yuck! Never use an ultrasonic cleaner on a watch, the vibration will damage the movement, knock hands and screws loose and cause a faulty o-ring to let water in.

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