A Guide to Buying and Collecting Accutron Watches

This is a guide for buying and collecting Bulova Accutron watches - the world’s first tuning fork watch. Created in the 1960’s and 1970’s, they are now highly prized world-wide by watch collectors.

While people think the tuning fork watch was a 20th century invention, the first prototype mechanical tuning fork clock, the "pendule ç diapason", was manufactured by Louis F. Breguet, grandson of the watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet. Breguet filed the patent on October 26, 1866, and March 1867. He also introduced a clock with a vibrating blade and mentioned a clock with 2 tuning forks and one with 2 vibrating blades. But the low frequency of the balance wheel made it impossible to improve on the accuracy of mechanical watches of the time, and the invention was ignored until the mid 20th century.

In 1952, Elgin and Lip introduced watches powered by batteries. This was heralded as the first true advancement in watchmaking in 400 years. However, these watches used a traditional balance wheel and offered no advancement in accuracy - it saved the wearer from remembering to wind it. Arde Bulova and the Bulova Company knew the Army needed more accuracy for instruments, and asked Swiss engineer Max Hetzel to look into using a higher frequency in an electronic watch based on the Breguet version - improving accuracy.

On October 10th, 1960, the new president of the Bulova, Omar Bradley, ex-chief of staff to Dwight Eisenhower, announced the Accutron Caliber 214, the first electronic watch in the world that did not rely on a balance wheel to run. The number of parts had been reduced to 27 of which only 12 were moving parts. By comparison, a self-winding watch at that time had about 136 parts, 26 moving. The sale of the Accutron started on October 25th and it took off immediately.

The "Bulova Accutron" has a frequency of 360 oscillations per second (360 Hz). The vibration of the tuning fork is controlled by a transistorized circuit. When the left magnet on the tuning fork moves to the right, the phase-sensing coil generates an induction voltage on the base of the transistor. The transistor "switches on" and becomes a conductor instead of a resistor. The electrical current is able to flow through the right circuit. The drive-coil becomes a magnet and gives an impulse to the permanent magnet. The movement of the permanent magnet in the driving-coil also causes an induction voltage opposing the power cell voltage. The result is a very small electric current and longer battery life. The problem ofturning the linear motion of the fork into a circular motion of the hands was solved by having the index jewel connected to the fork and pushing the ratchet wheel one tooth forward at a time. The pawl jewel is fixed to the watch frame and prevents the ratchet wheel from moving backwards. The ratchet wheel was an outstanding technical achievement - 2.4 mm in diameter, 0.04 mm thick with 300 teeth, each 1/100 mm high. In one year it revolves 38 million times. To protect this delicate ratchet system, the Accutron may be set only by turning the hands forward and to avoid damaging the delicate "fingers" that push it. Another technical achievement was the coil. The driving coil has 8,000 turns made of wire with a diameter of 0.015 mm and is an incredible 90 meters long.
However while Hetzel and Bulova were banking on the Accutron being the future of the watch, the majority of the watch industry was looking in a different direction - Quartz Technology. As the quartz movement gained popularity, it became cheaper to produce and equally as accurate as the Accutron. Accutron sales began to diminish. Soon, high end electronic watches like the Accutron virtually disappeared from the watch market - replaced with low end movements from Asia, mass produced for a fraction of what it cost to create an Accutron.

It wasn’t long before collectors of early electronic horology began to seek out tuning fork watches. Their limited years of production and styles made them the ideal collectable. As demand for "hummers" went up, so did the prices.

The original Accutron was the 214. They are easy to distinguish because of the unique "backset" system. This means that the crown that sets the watch is on the back, not on the side like traditional watches. The 214 came in many models - from men’s dress watches to railroad models. There are even a few 214 ladies’ pendant watches and some of the earlier models featured asymmetrical designs that combined stainless steel with 14 k gold. However by far the most collectable 214’s are the Spaceview and the Astronaut.

In the early 60’s, Bulova had a direct connection to the space program. NASA asked them to incorporate tuning fork technology into equipment for its burgeoning program. Accutron timing mechanisms were used in 46 NASA missions. As Americans went "space crazy", Bulova introduced the Spaceview and the Astronaut models to the commercial market. The Spaceview lacked a dial - revealing the tuning fork and movement and the Astronaut had a movable outer ring that allowed the wearer to use it as a timer or for monitoring a second time zone.

An Accutron watch movement actually sits on the moon today in the Sea of Tranquilit - in an instrument left there in 1969 by the crew of Apollo 11, the first men on the moon. It is hoped that one day that instrument will be recovered and tested back on earth.

By 1962, the 214 became the first wristwatch to be certified for use by railroad personnel. Prior to that, railroad workers used pocket watches, but frequently had to recalibrate in order to keep railroads running on time. The Accutron was guaranteed accurate to within one second a day or one minute a month, so coordinating times across the country was easier to accomplish.

Accutron introduced several models of desk clocks using the 214 movement. In 1964, President Lyndon Johnson made the Accutron watch and clock the official "Gift of State" for visiting dignitaries and world leaders. By 1967, Accutron was the only timing device used on Air Force One as well as on many American military ships and planes.

Following the success of the 214, the 218 was introduced. The 218 returned to a system of setting the watch from the side; however the crown was at 4 o’clock instead of the traditional 3 o’clock. Styles and times were changing, and the 218 was available in many more models with colorful dials and unusual shapes and bands. The Spaceview and Astronaut models were essentially dropped, but Railroad and Divers watches became staples. There were also several rare 218’s including a skeletonized version similar to the Spaceview and even a Mickey Mouse version. Today both are highly prized by collectors.

The 218 was followed by a 219, a 221, a 224 and a 230. Women’s models became more common in the line. These higher caliber models are just beginning to enjoy collector status along with their older relatives the 214 and 218. Ladies models are largely ignored by collectors today. As they are becoming scarcer, starting a ladies’ collection just might be a good investment. The market right now is wide open and prices are very low. Styles of women’s models generally reflect the times they were created in - "mod" styles that are very retro at the moment. Another mostly neglected watch is Caravelle’s transistorized model. Caravelle is Bulova’s low end line. Being a cheaper watch, most of them became more or less "throwaway" watches and their scarcity is just becoming noticed by collectors.

Should you add an Accutron to your watch and clock collection? Why not? Many people still routinely wear the Accutrons they bought back in the 60’s and 70’s and many others have joined them in proudly wearing these "hummers". They are very reliable, workhorse type watches and still maintain their reputation for accuracy and style. However, it should be noted that in the 1980’s, Bulova began to run out of spare parts for Accutrons, and by the 90’s, they stopped taking them in for repairs all together. Parts such as original coils and crystals are a commodity today. Coil problems are the most common cause of Accutron failure, and a coil repair job can be expensive.

The number of CATs - Certified Accutron Technicians - that Bulova trained in the 60's and 70's has dwindled and today there are very few truly qualified Accutron repair technicians. Finding someone who can reliably repair them can often be difficult and those who do repairs often have long wait lists.

The best advice for choosing an Accutron watch for your collection is to choose a reputable dealer who can advise you accurately regarding the condition of the watch and its value. Be aware that many unscrupulous sellers have been known to remove dials from more common 214 models to create more costly Spaceviews. Do your homework and make sure you are getting what you pay for. A savvy collector knows how to tell a genuine Spaceview from an altered one by the case style and subltle differences in the hands.

Dating an Accutron watch is extremely easy. Bulova used a letter/number combination to date watches. L watches were made in the 50’s, M in the 60’s and N in the 70’s. The number that follows the letter indicates the actual year of production. An M6 watch was made in 1966 and an N0 in 1970 and so on. Remember that after the tuning fork years, Bulova continued to use the Accutron name and symbol on watches. Check dials carefully. Many watches that say Accutron also say Quartz and are NOT true tuning fork Accutrons.

An Accutron or two is a "must" in any watch collection. Many of us have considerably more than two because we love them. The Accutron represents the "missing link" between mechanical and quartz watch technology, and therefore has earned its place in the annals of horological history.

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Water Proof Watches & Water Resistancy Levels

It is important to note that the Fair Trade Commission has ruled that the term "Water Proof" as it relates to watches constitutes unfair trade practices.
Look for resistancy levels on the dial or case back of the watch. An absence of any indication indicates extra caution should exercised when wearing the watch to avoid any contact with moisture. This is true in expensive dress watch (particularly 14K ladies watches) as well as lower valued watches. Refer to the warranty sheet for further restrictions. If no such sheet is available the chart below is fairly standard.

If your watch leaks, there is water in watch, you have a diver watch you must be aware of these important facts regarding your watch. Never allow anyone to open your watch, who does not have the ability to pressure test the watch for you.

NO INDICATION:Not resistant to splashing or other accidental contact with moisture of any kind. WATER RESISTANT (30M/100Ft/3ATM/3Bar)Will resist moisture from accidental splashing, rain, sweat, etc. Not suitable for immersion. WATER RESISTANT (50M/160Ft/5ATM/5Bar)Will resist moisture from accidental splashing, rain, and showering or swimming* WATER RESISTANT (100M/300Ft/10ATm/10Bar)Watch may be worn during snorkel or skin diving, if properly sealed.* WATER RESISTANT (200M/660Ft/20ATM/20Bar)Watch may be worn during standard scuba diving.*

* It is essential that the case back and crown be properly tightened down, if applicable. Buttons must not be operated when watch is suberged at any depth, unless expressly approved in the operating manual. Under no circumstance should a watch be worn in the water if there is any sign of a broken seal or gasket around the case back or crystal, or other compromise of the integrity of the case.

Alternate depth designations other than meters (M) will likely be indicated as Feet or ATM's or Bars.

1 Bar =1Atmosphere.
1 Atmosphere=14.696 1lbs/sq. in.
1 Atmosphere=33.899 feet or 10.33 Meters below surface of water.

In general terms 1 ATM is NOT considered a depth indication for a watch. A watch indicating 1 ATM should not be considered water resistant.
Remember, a watch has 1 ATM of pressure on it, at the surface of the water.

All measurements are of STATIC pressure and cannot be directly translated to real-life water pressure situations.

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A Brief Guide to Swiss Automatic Chronograph Movements

This Guide briefly examines most of the Swiss Automatic Chronograph movements currently in production today.

First of all, you do not need a "name" watch to get a very good timepiece. Many lesser-known manufacturers use the exact same movements as the Name Brands. The only difference may be of refinement--the higher-end the watch the more the manufacturer may refine, polish and decorate the movement.

Valjoux 7750 This is by far the most common Swiss Chronograph movement in production today. An integrated--designed to be a chronograph--25 Jewel workhorse, this is a highly durable, proven movement. Franck Muller uses it on occasion, as well as IWC, Baume&Mercier, Cartier, etc. An ETA (the largest Swiss movement manufacturer) product, it vibrates at 28,800 vph and is available in many configurations. The 7751 features a Moon Phase and Triple Date; 7753 features 9-6-3 Subdials with Date at 4:30 or 6:00.

ETA 2894-2 ETA also produces this movement. The 2894 is cutting edge, vibrating at 28,800 vph with 37 Jewels. This higher jewel count is mandated because this is a Modular Movement--a piggyback chronograph module is positioned on top of the 28 series movement, itself with 21 Jewels. A remarkable 12.25 ligne in width. These movements are showing up in more and more chronographs. Also available in a variety of configurations. Tag-Heuer, Chopard, Omega, and Baume & Mercier, among others, use this movement.

Zenith El Primero This is probably the most famous chrono movement of all time. Zenith originated it around 1963-4, and it is, with minor improvements, still in production today. It is an integrated 31-Jewel wonder vibrating at 36.000 vph--the world's fastest mechanical chronograph. Rolex used this in the Daytona until 2000, when it premiered it's own movement. Also used in the Tag Heuer Calibre 36, Panerai, Roth, Ebel, etc. If a watch other than Zenith contains the El Primero, it will certainly be advertised as such.

Lemania 1350 Ebel is the prime user of this 30 Jewel movement vibrating at 28,800 vph. Breguet uses a customized version of this in their Type XX. A very tough movement with a reputation for durability and lack of variance. Lemania also makes the 5100, a movement used by Sinn and Tutima.

Rolex 4130 This brand-new Rolex Chronograph movement replaced the El Primero in the Daytona in 2000. At 44 Jewels with a vph of 28,800, this movement has already won praises for it's toughness and accuracy. Elegant three-column design with a phenomenal 72 hour power reserve. Now Rolex, like just a few other Houses, produces all its movements in-house.

Frederic Piguet 1185 At 21.600 vph, this 37 Jewel movement is used in Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Cartier Pasha, VC, and Brequet, among others. With its exquisite three-column design, it is a favorite of collectors, who have considered it the finest autochrono movement made. Exceptionally thin at 5.2mm.

Omega 3313 Co-Axial This is Omega's Showpiece movement, originally based on the Piguet 1185, but now upgraded to include the Co-Axial Escapement (a large leap in mechanical technology). With a large power reserve of 55 hours, 3-column design, 37 Jewels, this movement is now state of the art (28,800vph).

Patek Philippe 5960 PP's first automatic chronograph movement (2006) is a 3-column design, vibrating at 28,800 vph with 40 Jewels. Complete with a solid 18K rotor and a 55 hour reserve, this is the most exclusive autochrono movement made, and with the Rolex, available in no other watch. Generally available on eBay for less than 80K in platinum case.

As of today, Swatch Group of Switzerland owns ETA, Lemania, Valjoux, and F. Piguet, giving it a stranglehold on the Swiss Watch Industry. It will be interesting; new movements by a variety of producers are now in the early stages of production. See an article in Europa Star: Mechanical Movements: the Race for Alternatives, or search La Joux-Perret; Sellita; Technotime.

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How to Avoid Possible Scams when Buying Rolex Replica Watches

It is best to be cautious when buying Rolex Replica Watches online. It is important to avoid Internet scams and really get what you are paying for.
Steps
1. Make sure that watches on the pictures provided do not show 10:10. All authentic pictures (from Rolex, Omega, etc.) show this time. If you ever see a commercial or an ad for the watch it will always show 10:10. You want a retailer that you are buying from to have pictures of actual watches that they are selling. Preferably with their website URL included in the picture - not written on the picture.
2. Send an e-mail before you make a purchase and ask if the watch you are buying looks exactly like the watch in the picture. Tell them that if you get a watch that doesn't look exactly the same you will call your credit card company immediately to tell them that you got ripped off, and cancel the purchase. Also observe how professional they are in responding to your e-mails. If they do not respond to your e-mail within a few days, avoid that website.
3. Use a credit card that has 100% fraud protection. Most of these retailers are going under all the time and you can never be sure that you won't get ripped off. However, don't forget one thing. You are buying a counterfeit product.
4. Avoid making payments by Western Union, bank wire or money order. If you use your credit card you can at least be sure that you will get your money back if you receive no watch. Or at least receive something, even though it might not be the watch of the same quality that you expected. If you wire money or use Western Union, the chances of getting your money back are very slim. Also, a good option would be to pay by COD (cash on delivery), but only if you are able to look at the product and then decide if you are going to pay or not. If you don't get what you were promised, do not pay! If the postal service wants you to pay before letting you inspect the product, reject the package!
5. Make sure that the website you are buying from offers a money back guarantee. That way you can get money back from your credit card company if you get scammed. But make sure you use a credit card, as this is the only way you can get your money back based on the money back guarantee.
6. Never buy a very expensive replica watch. It's simply not worth it.
7. Know that just because a website looks really fancy it doesn't mean that a scam artist isn't behind it.
8. Make the use of a website's 1-800 number. Call them and ask questions. However, keep in mind that this does not mean anything, as the phone number can get disconnected over the night. Many of the scam websites will list their phone numbers all over the front page so you feel more safe. Phone number, although a good addition, does not guarantee you anything.

Warnings
Avoid buying from new and unestablished websites. Google PR of 0 is also a good indication that website should not be trusted. Most of the scam websites are online just long enough to scam a certain number of customers and then they disappear. Most of the customers complain to hosting companies about the scam websites and their accounts get closed. Website with good rankings and high Google PR does not guarantee you that it is not a scam, but it makes it much less possible. Also, never buy from websites that are hosted on free servers such as Tripod, Geocities, etc.

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