Saturday, January 31, 2009

Tachymeter

Example A:

Find the AVERAGE speed of a moving car between point A & B with a distance 1000 m ( 1 km ).

If the car spends 30 seconds to finish this 1000 m, the red hand will point at the reading 120. This means the car can finish 120 x (1000 m) / hr = 120km / hr.

If the testing distance is shortened to 1m but the time remains the same, the answer will be 120m / hr.

Example B:

Find the total number of paper boxes can be folded in one hour. If an machine can fold a paper box in 20 seconds, the red hand will point at 180. This means 180 paper boxes can be folded in one hour.

You may see that the scale at the beginning is tighter (500 -> 400 = 2 sec.) than that at the end (70 -> 60 = 8.4 sec.); therefore, the shorter the time taken, the more the error due to your reaction time or other factors.

Increase the accuracy:

Use example B again, but this time, we count the time taken after 2 boxes are folded.

According to the answer from example B, we could find the reading is 40 sec or 90. But the actual reading may be 39 sec. only. As a result, the red hand will point at about 92.5; this means 92.5 x (2 boxes) / hr = 185 boxes can be folded in one hour. 5 more per hour !!!

Limit:The time taken must be equal to or less than 60 sec.

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Friday, January 30, 2009

Tourbillion

A tourbillon, "whirlwind" in French, a type of mechanical clock or watch escapement, was invented in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet. It is designed to counter the effects of gravity and other perturbing forces on the balance wheel and the balance spring that can affect the accuracy of a chronometer. This is accomplished by mounting the escapement in a rotating frame, so that the effect of gravity cancels out when the escapement is rotated 180°. The effects of gravity were particularly problematic when pocketwatches were carried in the same position for most of the day. In a tourbillon, the entire escapement assembly rotates, including balance wheel, escape wheel, and pallet fork (anchor). The rate of rotation varies per design but has generally become standardized at one rotation per minute.

The tourbillon is considered to be one of the most challenging of watch mechanisms to make and is valued for its engineering and design principles. In modern watch designs, a tourbillon is not required to produce a highly accurate timepiece. Nevertheless, the tourbillon is one of the most valued complications of collector's watches and premium timepieces. In fact, modern implementations typically allow the tourbillon to be seen through a window in the watch face. In addition to enhancing the charm of the piece, the tourbillon acts as a second hand as it rotates once per minute.

In the late 20th century, the first research into multi-axis tourbillon movements was done by British clockmakers Anthony Randall and Richard Good, eventually producing 2 - and 3 - axis tourbillon movements.

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Thursday, January 29, 2009

Seiko Spacewalk

Spring Drive Spacewalk is specially designed and built to accompany the first private individual ( Richard Garriott ) to conduct a Spacewalk.
Richard Garriott, famous video game designer and adventurer, will become the 6th private space explorer and conduct his space mission aboard the International Space Station in October 2008. As Richard goes out into free space, he will be wearing a Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk.

Seiko specialists did not consider quartz movements as battery-operated instruments that lack special treatment are not used for a Spacewalk for safety reasons. Thus, they had to choose between a mechanical movement and Spring Drive.

The mechanism to be incorporated by the Spacewalk must guarantee the maximum safety and accuracy, even when the watch is exposed to an extreme range of temperature from - 20°C to + 70°C.

The ability of the watch to provide accuracy at extreme temperatures is of the greatest importance, but no mechanical watch can maintain its accuracy in such conditions - the traditional escapement responsible for regulating the time in all mechanical watches is characterized by the inherent instability in the extreme conditions.

That is why Spring Drive has become the best solution the Seiko specialists could find.

The Spacewalk watch is equipped with the Spring Drive Chronograph Caliber 5R86. The mechanism provides the following functions: hours, minutes and seconds, calendar, GMT , 72-hour power reserve, and 12-hour chronograph.

Unique Characteristics of the Spacewalk:

1. Air-tight caseThe watch case needs to be completely air-tight to allow the timepiece operate in the vacuum of free space. Seiko based the creation of the Spacewalk watch on its rich experience in the field of divers watches able to resist pressures up to 1,000 meters. Spacewalk incorporates special features to guarantee air-tightness in the vacuum of free space. In particular, Seiko engineers developed a new type of gasket, having applied a rubberized material.
2. Light weight of the case Instruments to be used in space must be extremely light and strong. The case of the Seiko watch was crafted in high -intensity titanium, the material 40 percent lighter than stainless steel. The 100-meter waterproof construction weighs just 92.5 grams.
Seiko engineers had to make the case not only light but also as large as possible. To offer great readability, they designed the case to have minimum volume but maximum dial opening size. They built the case, 53.0 x 48.7 mm in diameter, 15.2 mm thick, with recessed sides, having come up with a new engineering solution, using a Seiko-in-house CNC (computer numerical control) machine. The innovative process allowed to reduce the volume of the case material by 30 percent. Altogether, the Spacewalk watch has the case characterized by the optimum balance of strength, lightness and wide dial opening.
3. Great readability of the dialThe Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk watch features a new layout, with the chronograph dials placed at the top. The timepiece has the specifically designed hands and hour markers covered by the additional layers of Seiko's Lumibrite material. The dial has become at least three times brighter than a traditional luminous watch.
4. Extreme comfort of useThe Seiko watch has been designed with over-sized buttons that can be easily pressed even when wearing thick space gloves. The buttons are placed at the top of the case for easier access.
Seiko will produce the Spring Drive Spacewalk watch in a limited number of only 100 pieces. Richard Garriott will take 3 pieces to accompany him on his mission, while the rest of the space-proof watches will be distributed worldwide in December 2008. Estimated Price: US$26000

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Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Patek Philippe latest Enamel World Timer Ref: 5131

The watch as a work of art.

At this year’s Baselworld, Patek Philippe is unveiling the World Time watch Ref. 5131. It is a debut that will delight many people for many different reasons. Its mechanism for the permanent display of all 24 time zones and its truly convenient adjustability to any local time constitute a technical coup that will appeal to all who admire useful complications. In turn, its cloisonné enamel dial will delight connoisseurs of the art of enamelling. Finally, watch collectors will be relieved to see this particular type of timepiece – at international auctions, its predecessors meanwhile fetch astronomical prices – back in the Geneva workshops’ standard collection.

All the world’s times on the wrist

Patek Philippe’s World Time watches belong to the category of so-called useful complications. They serve their owners well with practical functions of relevance in contemporary everyday life. At a glance, a World Time watch indicates the hour at all major international stock markets: Frankfurt, London, New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Bangkok.

The local time indicated by the hour and minute hands applies to the location on the city disk that is directly aligned with 12 o’clock. The crown is used to set the correct time in conjunction with the 24-hour ring, so a distinction can be made between 4 am and 4 pm. Now, switching from one time zone to another is accomplished simply by pressing the button at 10 o’clock. Every time it is pressed, the hour hand will advance by one hour while the city ring and the 24-hour ring will rotate counter-clockwise by one hour (equivalent to one time zone). Pressing the button 24 times emulates a trip around the world and a return to the point of departure.

This mechanism was devised by the gifted Geneva watchmaker and tinkerer Louis Cottier in the early 1930s. He offered his invention to Patek Philippe first and in 1959, the company protected it with Swiss Patent No. 340 191. Subsequently, Cottier created another mechanism for the Geneva-based manufacture. It was able to display two time zones simultaneously and ultimately inspired the development of the Calatrava Travel Time.

With a solution patented in 1999, Patek Philippe further optimized the calibre 240 HU (Heure Universelle = World Time) movement by totally isolating the World Time mechanism with the city and 24-hour rings from the going train of the watch. Thus, when the mechanism is switched from one time zone to the next, the accuracy of the movement and the progression of the minute hand are not in the least affected. Calibre 240 HU is an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement that features a 22K gold mini-rotor recessed in the plate. It beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz). A few years ago, Patek Philippe used this movement to reintroduce the World Time watch in its standard collection; it proved to be an instant bestseller.

Watches for connoisseurs and collectors

The exclusivity of these complications is no doubt the principal reason why Patek Philippe’s 1940s and 1950s World Time watches fetch higher prices at international auctions than any other wristwatches. Bids in the magnitude of 1 million Swiss francs are now the rule, but the record today is still held by an early platinum model that changed hands in 2002 for the fantastic sum of 6.6 million francs. Models showcasing a small, hand-made cloisonné enamel miniature in the centre of the dial are in great demand as well. The eclectic motifs range from clusters of palm trees to solitary lighthouses, but the most popular ones are colourful, stylized world maps because they best match the purpose of the timepiece. Such a map also adorns the dial of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5131, finally giving collectors the renewed opportunity to find a watch in this category within the workshops’ current portfolio.

The art of cloisonné enamelling

In addition to Geneva enamel and champlevé enamel, cloisonné enamel is one of the three classic techniques traditionally used to adorn watches and watch components. The motifs are always silhouettes whose contours define the shapes of the cloisons (French for partition, or cell) that ultimately contain the differently coloured zones of the finished enamel opus. A characteristic shared by all enamelling techniques is the stunning brilliance of the colours: contrary to paintings that use conventional pigments, they do not fade and retain their luster for centuries.

A cloisonné enamel piece begins as a wafer of copper or gold into which the contours of the motif are scored by hand. Subsequently, the lines are retraced with very thin, flattened gold wire. Like a dainty ribbon standing on its edge, the wire is bent with tweezers to follow the contours and then secured; eventually, the entire drawing is composed of a number of cloisons which now need to be filled with the enamel mass. Enamel consists of finely crushed glass ground to powder. The admixture of various metal oxides produces the colours when the glass is melted. After the powder has been filled into the cloisons, the work of art can be fired in a special furnace at temperatures between 850 and 900°C. To prevent distortion, the reverse side of the wafer must also be coated with a layer of enamel, the so-called contre-email. Because the metal oxides added to the powder can change their colour at different temperatures, enamel work can involve several firing passes. The end result is a colourfully arrayed glass motif from which the gold wires forming the cells protrude. These wires are then ground down to the level of the glass layers, and in the final phase, the entire work of art is protected by the fondant, a colourless, highly transparent layer of enamel applied in a last firing process. At the end of every firing pass, the enamel miniature must be allowed to slowly cool to room temperature in a precisely controlled manner. Otherwise, thermal stresses could cause the hard, fused glass to crack.

Thus, the art of cloisonné enamelling not only requires virtuosity and a highly developed sense of aesthetics. The artisans who master it must also be fully aware of the technical, physical, and chemical processes involved in preparing, mixing, applying, and firing the enamel mass. Until the early 20th century, cloisonné enamelling, champlevé enamelling, and miniature painting

according to the acclaimed Geneva enamelling traditions were precious skills needed to embellish watches and other luxury objects. Elsewhere, the tradition sank into oblivion, but Patek Philippe never stopped crafting wristwatches, pocket watches, and table clocks featuring lavish decorations based on venerable enamelling techniques. After all, an art must live to have a successful future.

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Monday, January 19, 2009

Review of the Wohler Skeleton Watch, Ardent Model

This guide is being written because I found it difficult to find information on the "luxury watches" being offered for a few hundred dollars on ebay, while the MSRP was listed for thousands on the manufacturer's website. I am not affiliated with any companies or sellers and really only use ebay for the occasional concert tickets and other eclectic desires I have. Also, please forgive if my terminologies are incorrect, I am a novice to higher end watches.

I recently purchased a Wohler Ardent full skeleton watch with Automatic winding. I purchased it for the Buy it now price of $199.95 from Abrams Jewelry, an ebay store. The watch is priced on it's website for$2,995.00, which I found hard to believe, as lovely as it looked in the pictures. Despite not finding much information on reliablility or reviews for this brand, I was enamored by the look of the watch, with the clear front and back casing showing the delicate carvings, cogs and springs. It looked to be a very high quiality watch in the photos.

Abrams was very prompt with the shipping, as it arrived 2 days later, double boxed in a priority mail box with padding. It did not come in the black box shown in the picture, but rather a red box (not as nice, but a fine box to store a watch in). I removed it and gave it a once over. I am not sure what alligator leather wrist straps are supposed to feel like, but the straps and buckle on the watch seems nice enough.

The leather is pliable and thick, not cheap or plastic feeling, and the buckle works as a buckle should. My only complaint about those components would be that the texture of the leather makes it a little difficult to adjust the strap to fit - I'll eventually remedy that with a smooth cow leather strap.

The watch body is of good weight, again, it does not feel cheap. Internal components look very nice and smooth, not rough or jagged. Nice detailed etching, just as shown in the photographs. Hands are easy to read against the skeletonized face. Automatic winding weight moves smoothly around the back on its pivot point.

I followed the directions to wind the watch (turning the knob 5-6 times to get the spring wound a bit) and watched the second hand move. While advertised as a sweeping second hand, I do see that it ticks just a bit, but it is much smoother than a "ticking" hand. All the cogs and gears move smoothly and seemingly effortless.

I have not confirmed the movement of the "movement" of this watch. It is not advertised, but my suspicion is possibly Chinese. This brand is linked with the other brands, such as Romilly, Jeanneret and Rousseau, in that the main contact company is in Carrolton, Texas. Apparently the Texas based company has a repututation for "cheap" watches with Chinese components. Dispite that, I think that this watch is a fine peice. I will be taking this Wholer to a watch repair and appraisal shop in the near future to verify quality and durability and will update this guide, or write a new guide accordingly.

I hope and assume that since all the mechanical components are exposed, this forced who ever made this watch to use a higher quality product. But if this stopped working tomorrow, it at least looks nice enough to put on display.

If you are used to having Rolexes or other high end watches, I imagine this watch is not to your taste, since there is no reputation. If you are used to $15 Walmart brand watches, this is a nice upgrade. Just be wary of your seller, and don't pay too much (I wouldn't have paid more than what I did). Know that you are getting a beautiful looking watch that has yet to prove it's longevity.
Be aware and good luck.

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Sunday, January 18, 2009

Low Vision Watches

Low vision watches are available in stylish fashions and colors for those with vision challenges. There is a wide selection of high quality low vision watches created for men and women in casual and dress styles. More importantly low vision watches offer features that are specifically geared towards those with vision challenges.

A few of the popular low vision watches for women include moderately priced casual and dress watches that offer features such as the line offered by Marcel. If looking for a casual watch with a leather band in white or yellow gold Marcel has one that retails for $34.95. All of the watches are talking watches, and one button providing the time rather AM or PM. Additionally the low vision watches have alarms and or chimes that alert the wearer every hour.

If looking for low vision watches with expandable bands. there is a nice collection also by Marcel. This particular watch (sold by model numbers) is also available in white gold or yellow gold and also offers the audible alarms every hour, and one button timing. The retail price for the white or yellow gold Women's Talking Watch by Marcel is $34.95.

Several of the talking watches for women are quite fashionable offering blue faces. The low vision watches are available in white gold or yellow gold and offer the same basic features as the other talking watches including: audible alarms every hour and one button timing for AM or PM. The retail price for the blue face low vision watches retail for approximately $34.95.

Definitely a popular product among the collection of low vision clocks and watches is the Talking Watch with Expansion Band from Marcel Drucker. This is the ideal vision aid for the busy person who needs to stay abreast of his or her time. Features include hearing the time with a simple push of a button. There are 3 different alarm sounds and a voice feedback designed to help the owner set the time. The unique low vision watch retails for only $49.99. The low vision watch is available in gold and silver.

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Saturday, January 17, 2009

How to Repair Silver Jewelry

When buying a piece of sterling silver jewelry, it is so beautiful and shines. In time, that necklace loses its luster, and eventually tarnishes and becomes black. You can however clean it and restore its luster.
Steps
1. Polish sterling silver by rubbing or buffing it regularly with a soft cotton cloth.
2. Consider using a chemically treated cloth that you can buy anyplace that Sterling silver jewelry is sold as it makes the job easier.
3. Understand that while sterling silver dips are fast and easy, many dips will remove the color from many gemstones that adorn the article. Also, if you leave the piece in too long, or fail to rinse it well, residues will remain when it dries. If you do use a dip, dip it in and out very fast and rinse it immediately in clean water followed by an immediate buffing to bring out the shine.
4. Repair a broken clasp by purchasing a replacement clasp. Clasps can be bought online or at a local craft supply store. Make sure you buy the same style and color as the broken one. If you have never been happy with that particular clasp, then buy an upgraded clasp that you would find easier to use.[1]
5. Check the chain to notice how the links were put together. You will need to know this, so that you can assemble the chain after you repair it.
6. Place the chain on a ceramic soldering board and use tweezers to put the two ends back together and squeeze the links until they are closed. Using your tweezers fit the two ends of the chain back together. Then squeeze the links closed.
Tips
· Put on any hair spray or perfume prior to putting on any jewelery.
· If the clasp is soldered on, you might need to bring it to the jewelers to repair.
1. when closing an open link or opening a closed link use two pairs of pliers and a twisting action

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Friday, January 16, 2009

How to Select Silver Jewelry

Silver and Sterling silver jewelry is quite popular among most people. Sterling silver can be use to make earrings, rings as well as jewelry. The popularity is increased day by day due to its affordable price and beauty. Silver jewelry has been used since 2,500 BC as ornaments, investment. This article explains how to select silver jewelry.

Steps

1. Check the quality and guarantee if you have decided to purchase silver jewelry. Like other industries, there are so many quality controls in jewelry and this is not an exception. During the quality control process the silver will be refined to maintain the U.S. law, and it’s called “Sterling Silver”. Most of the jewelry items come with a quality guarantee, i.e. guarantee for manufacturing defects. Defective jewelry may be returned with proper authorization, fixed exchange date and the exchange rate of credit.
2. Select your favorite style. Many jewelry makers and vendors extensively make jewelry with colored CZs, colored glasses and gems like – blue topaz, amethyst, turquoise, moonstone, amber black onyx and more.
3. Be careful before making an investment in silver jewelry. Look out for fake jewelry, because cheap imitation of silver jewelry looks very similar to the original.

Tips
Sterling silver earrings put the final touch at an intimate evening for your partner.
Warnings
· Some people have skin reaction to silver jewelry. If you are allergic to silver jewelry, don't buy it.

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Thursday, January 15, 2009

International luxury brands bet big on India

The $450 million luxury brands industry, which plans to stick to its high tagline, is all set to witness a whopping 1.40 lakh families spend on such brands by 2010 as compared to 2,000 families in 2002.

German luxury watch brand A Lange & Söhne, along with other competitive watch brands such as Vacharon Constantin, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-leCoultre, are looking only at the upper crust with a price ranging between Rs 7 lakh and Rs 2.5 crore. They are targeting customers with an annual income of over Rs 1 crore. Fabian Krone, chief executive officer, A Lange & Söhne told FE, “Being exclusive is becoming a trend and so exclusive are these timepieces that only 5,000 units are made every year. When a person acquires a Lange, he inherits its state-of-the-art tradition and class. We are planning to expand our ‘Beyond Luxury’ premium multi-brand watch store from 4 to 6 six stores in India. Currently, Beyond Luxury is based in cities such as Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Hyderabad.

We will set up another Beyond Luxury store in Delhi and some other city as well which we will finalise soon. Luxury watches in India are sold not only through premium stores but also through jewellers, who act as agents.”

Gitanjali Lifestyle has entered into an exclusive distribution arrangement with Noraletto (watch band from Italy) for selling its products in the Indian market. Dharmesh Bothra, group CEO (jewellery), Gitanjali Group, said, “Taking these plans forward, we will set up 25 shop-in-shops for Noraletto watches within premium retail outlets in India in the next six months.”

Noraletto has nine brands which we are planning to sell through Giantti – our lifestyle boutique for high-end watches, jewellery and accessories. Besides, we have also tied up with Swiss brands such as Nina Ricci and Times Avenue and plan to tie up with many international luxury watch brands this year. We will be setting up 25 to 30 Giantti stores this year. Plans are also on the anvil to set up ‘Bezel’ branded luxury premium stores only for selling luxury watches in India. According to industry experts, India spends $8,000 to $9,000 on luxury brands as compared to $29,000 in the US

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Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Timepiece inspired by world of Jules Verne

Vulcania is the name Fabrice Gonet has chosen for his second watch recently designed. The amazing timekeeping creation was inspired by the world Jules Verne described in his books and inherited its name from the mysterious Vulcania Island. The watch is designed in the spirit of the novelist's imaginary machines, still keeping in touch with the modern world.

The ground-breaking movement of the timepiece represents a gyrotourbillon absolutely unique to HD3. The mechanism was developed in cooperation with BNB. The naval world with its great ships and the first submarines served as a source of inspiration for all the details featured by the timepiece. The zest of Vulcania is the vitality of the movement parts displayed.

The Vulcania watch shows the time in the most unconventional way one may think of. It shows the hours on a wheel through a lateral porthole, while the minutes are displayed on a disc reminding a ship's Chadburn telegraph. The indicator of the 80-hour power reserve is reminiscent of a sextant. The design of the timepiece is also special due to a porthole that allows seeing the winding mechanism of the movement.

The case back of the Vulcania sports a porthole on the main plate created in the spirit of the Nautilus submarine. The map of the mysterious Vulacania Island together with its coordinates has been engraved on the sapphire glass back.

The technical development and designing process of the Vulcania watch required about 2000 hours of work.

As for the bracelet of the timepiece, it provides improved ergonomics and supreme comfort of wearing. Its folding clasp was exclusively developed by HD3 Complication. The watch's strap offers the choice between black rubber, matt black crocodile skin or black vintage leather.

The Vulcania has been produced in a strictly limited edition of 11 pieces in titanium and platinum.

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Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Watch Winders Buying Guide

What exactly is a watch winder?

A watch winder is a device used to keep automatic (also known as self winding) watches running when not worn. Automatic watches operate on the principle of winding themselves using a moving weight inside the watch. The weight swings or rotates while the watch is worn and turns the winding mechanism inside the watch. So, fairly obviously, if the watch is not worn, then it no longer receives power this way and will run down. While virtually all automatic watches can be manually wound, this is not always convenient. So the concept of an automatic watch winder was born.

A watch winder is a device which holds a watch (or often more than one) and moves it in a circular patterns to emulate the necessary parts of human motion to operate the self-winding mechanism.

A winder cannot over wind an automatic watch, since all automatic watches are protected from being over wound by a mechanism that disengages the winding process when the mainspring is fully wound. But using a timer-based winder is still very important to prevent excessive wear on the winding mechanism. There is no need to keep the watch in motion 24 hours a day when usually only 30 minutes of motion is necessary to keep it properly wound.

Winders are totally useless with battery-operated quartz watches. But they do work for the special 'battery-less' quartz watches, such as the Omega-Matic, Seiko Kinetic, and similar. These automatic/quartz hybrids use the same weight/rotor principal to generate electric power to run a quartz movement.

Up until recently, there were no winder devices available to operate manual wind watches. But Orbita demonstrated such a device at the Basel 2000 watch exposition, and may be making them available to the public in the near future.

Do I need a watch winder?

Well, you didn't need to buy more automatic watches than you can wear at one time, did you? But don't worry, you are far from alone! Many collectors and enthusiasts quickly get into this dilemma. Ultimately, the main function of a winder is as a convenience device. Read on to learn more...

Doesn't a winder protect my watch by keeping the oils from clotting?

The oils used in most modern watches and properly serviced vintage watches are not very prone to clotting or coagulating. While there are technical reasons in favor of keeping a watch continuously running, there are also reasons in favor of not unnecessarily overusing a watch.

There is no significant evidence that a good watch winder will either save or harm your watch. The several watch repair professionals I've dealt with say they've never encountered a watch that 'would have been fine, if only the owner had kept it on a winder.'

So how should I choose whether to get a winder or not?

Choose a winder for your needs based on its convenience value to you. If you have a watch you almost never wear, simply wind it up every couple of weeks and let it run down. But for automatic watches you wear frequently, but not continuously, a winder is a great solution for keeping them ready to wear on a moments notice. If this convenience is worth the cost of a winder to you, then go for it!

The single biggest advantage of a winder for seldom used watches is for those with complex perpetual calendar features that may require elaborate resetting after the watch has been stopped for a while.

Why are watch winders so expensive when they seem pretty simple in concept?

Watch winder manufacturers and sellers emphasize the quality, the precision, and their knowledgable design to correctly pamper your watch as the reasons. These do factor in, but only explain part of the cost of these $200-$8,000 devices.

But the remaining factor in the cost is that these are specialty items manufactured in relatively low quantities. Although winder manufacturers keep their sales numbers confidential, it is safe to guess that sales are a few thousands of units per year. At this level of production, they cannot achieve the economies of mass production that make items that sell in the multi-million units (such as blenders and toasters) so affordable.

So while the prices of the devices may be higher than you might expect, it is not viable for these manufacturers to produce them at prices comparable to mass consumer items.

What types of winders are available?

There are only a few manufacturers of watch winders. The types of watch winders currently on the market tend to fall into three main categories:

Functional: Such winders perform the duties of winding one or more watches. Generally, these units hold the watch on the exterior of the device. As such, they tend to need to be on a tabletop or somewhat tall shelf. Some which handle more than one watch start to resemble carnival rides, with their merry-go-round or ferris wheel configurations and multiple rotating watch holders.

Elegant: These winders go beyond pure functionality and offer a nice form and exterior. Normally they are a completely enclosed box, often made of nicely finished wood or covered in leather. They are suitable for display on a desk or dresser, yet many are capable of fitting inside a drawer or safe deposit box.

Extravagant: As with many luxury items, the sky is the limit on options. Winders with heaters to keep the watch near body temperature, built-in storage drawers, and atomic-clock-synchronized time displays are some of the esoteric and beyond features available on some of the very high end winders.

Within these are options of a/c and battery powered units. The battery units are especially nice for use on shelves, in drawers, or in a safe deposit box.

Should I start with a single head unit or go for a multi headed unit?

If you are enough of a collector to want a winder, don't short-change yourself by skimping on a winder that can only handle one watch. If you've got the watch 'bug,' it won't be long before you buy another automatic and be caught short. Consider at least one of the single-unit watch winders have optional two-watch heads. Or buy a single-watch unit for starters and plan on adding a multi-watch unit later.

What else should I consider?

Don't underestimate the value of manual wind watches for your collection. They offer the joy of needing to interact with your collection every day or two to keep them going. It can be nice to be needed. Vintage manual wind watches are readily available, modern ones are less common but still made. Not only will you not need a winder, they are intentionally easy to wind by hand. Many automatics have screw down crowns or are otherwise not as accommodating for frequent manual winding.

Automatic watches are intended for fairly regular wear. So concentrate your ownership of automatic watches on those that you will wear at least a couple of times a week. Winders are a nice convenience for watches you don't wear daily. But why spin away most of the lifetime of several nice watches waiting for you to seldom wear them.

A bad watch winder is worse than no winder. Automatic watches are designed to be worn by people. People move in a large diversity of manners, causing a fairly even distribution of motion of the watch's internal winding mechanism. A watch winder is normally limited to a very finite number of directions and types of movement -- some as little as one single motion. So a poorly designed winder (especially the one you tried to make from an old electric drill and spare auto parts when you first heard that a real winder sells for hundreds of dollars) might cause undesirable wear of the watch's mechanisms from excessive and repetitive movement.

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Monday, January 12, 2009

Pocket Watch Cases The Correct Way To Open.

OK...You have just found a pocket watch. It may have belonged to a family member, or you may have developed and interest in watches. Now you want to see just what is inside of your watch. One word of caution....BE CAREFUL. OK, so it is two words, but if you are not careful, you can inflict considerable damage to the precision movement that the case holds. Always remember this. There are two kinds of people who open watch cases. A watchmaker and a damn fool.

There are many types of watch cases. We will discuss the most common ones here. If you run into a fusee type of watch, contact us and we will give you detailed instructions on how to deal with those.

So here we go.

SCREW ON BEZEL AND BACK.
These are about the most common types of pocket watch cases. You will usually notice around the edge of the case a very fine to faint line. This is where the case ring and the bezel and back come together. To open, they simply unscrew counter clockwise. Sometimes, these cases get stuck and are very hard to open. You can use a small piece of thin rubber to grip the bezel and case back. Apply pressure while turning and the case should open.

SWING RING STYLE CASES.
These cases were an attempt to create a dust proof environment for the watch movement. You will notice around the case ring a fine to faint line beneath the bezel that holds the glass crystal. This bezel along with the crystal unscrews counter clockwise. When the dial is exposed, just below the second hand at the 6 O'clock position, there is a small groove. This groove is for lifting the movement out of the case using your fingernail. But first, you must gently pull the crown out. This pulls the stem out of the movement and allows you to lift the movement from the case. The swing-ring is hinged to the case ring so it is rather secure. Care must be taken so as not to damage the dial or movement. These types of cases require special care when opening and closing.

When you close a swing-ring case, you will need to feel the stem going back into the movement. You can turn the crown until it falls into place. Push the movement back into the case and then push the crown back into the pendant. You can now replace the front bezel with the glass crystal. Very simple, Right?

HUNTER STYLE WATCH CASES. These pocket watches come in all different sizes. It is not uncommon to see these in the massive 18 size cases all the way down to the small ladies pendant watches. They do have one main thing in common, and that is how they open.

To observe the dial on a hunter cased pocket watch, you need to push down on the crown. One of the case lids is going to open. That was easy. Now you know what is the back of the watch. You should see a very small lip to the right of the case back. Here you insert the edge of a knife under the lip. Using very gentle force, apply pressure with a twisting motion and the case back should open right up. OH BOY, another cover?

Yes, most hunter cased watches have another dust cover under the outside cover. This is called a cuvette. To open this one, place your knife along the edge where it fits against the case ring. When you insert the knife into this edge, the cuvette will pop right open. Be very careful so as to not slip and damage the watch movement. See where the saying above came from!

When you close hunter cased watches, be sure NOT to push in the center of the case. This can dent them and distort them. This is especially true when you encounter a karat gold watch case.

THE NAWCO BULLDOG WATCH CASE. This is a very strange watch case. You probably won't encounter one unless you are building a pocket watch collection. They have a very solid flat section just below the crown. This is very wide and does not look like the regular pendant on a pocket watch. This flat section also bevels out to the edge. You will know it when you see it.

The North American Watch Case Company (NAWCO) made cases for the Illinois Watch Company. Illinois made watches for the Burlington Watch Company. The watches were marked with the Bulldog name on the dial and movement. The cases were also marked Bulldog. Over time, many other companies chose to house movements in the NAWCO cases. They were very strong, and featured the screw on bezel and screw on case back. What made them different than just the regular watch case?

The NAWCO case also contained a cuvette. After you unscrewed the case back, you would notice the additional cover over the movement. This made for a great sealed case and also prevented most people from opening them. So how do you open the cuvette? Simple. Just like opening the cuvette on a hunter cased watch. Insert a sharp knife edge into the groove and pop the cuvette off.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT CASE OPENERS. Almost every watch case manufacturer produced small watch case openers that could be carried by the owner. They were made by Keystone, Dueber, Cresent, Star and Illinois watch case companies. They were very decorative and many were given away at World Fairs. These had a very fine edge that was used to open watch cases. These have become very collectible.

WHAT IF I STILL CAN'T GET MY WATCH CASE TO OPEN. This can happen. Cases at times have not been opened for decades. They corrode together. When you encounter one that is stuck to the point that you can't open it, seek out a professional watchmaker or jeweler that has experience in the area of watch case repair. We have many methods available that we can use to open a stuck case. These are tricks-of-the-trade that have been tried and tested over many years, all designed to open your watch case without any damage to the watch movement.

We hope that this topic was helpful to you. If we can assist you in any way, please let us know.

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Sunday, January 11, 2009

Fashion Jewellery Buying Guide: Discover Today's Hottest Jewellery Fashions

Although trends come and go, quality jewellery withstands the test of time. You can almost guarantee that if a popular jewellery fashion retires for a season, it will come back and when it does, you'll be ready for the trend. Some of the latest trends in jewellery include:
· Rose gold jewellery: If you're lucky enough to have the rose gold watch your great-grandmother passed down, start wearing it now. If not, invest in rose gold earrings, rosegold rings or a rose gold watch like the one adorning Sheryl Crow's wrist.
· Jewellery inspired by nature: As Bohemian and ethnic trends begin to fall by the wayside, refined jewellery with nature-inspired themes are beginning to take centre stage. Check out leaf jewellery, including leaf earrings, jewelled leaf brooches and leaf necklaces. Butterfly jewellery, especially butterfly brooches, continues to soar to the top of everyone's must-have jewellery list. Mariah Carey is a celebrity well known for her love of butterfly jewellery.
· Dark, moody stones: Dark jewellery is really hot. Check out stones that have an earthy, exotic look, such as black onyx, black jade, black opals, black pearls and black diamonds.
· Dangle earrings: Dangle earrings are the new “it” earrings. Long diamond dangle earrings can make a dramatic statement for the evenings, while more demure gold dangle earrings can work nicely for the daytime. Pearl dangle earrings can add a touch of glamour during the day, but perhaps you can save those extra-long shoulder sweepers for the evening. For that maximum ‘wow’ factor, combine your dangle earrings with a swept back hairdo or with a high-pony.
· Piles of pearls: Pearls can add that touch of class or make your look trendy. For a classic look, wear a strand of pearls. To get the hottest look, wear various types of pearls in different lengths. Mix strands of pink pearls, black pearls and freshwater pearls. Sharon Stone recently purchased beautiful black pearls in Tahiti. She also wears her freshwater pearls mixed with a strand of puka shells along with a white tank top and jeans.

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Saturday, January 10, 2009

The watch runs for a while and stops

When you are reading ads, and the seller states that "the watch runs for a while and stops" you do not have to assume that the watch is shot. On the contrary, it probably only needs to be cleaned and oiled to restore it to running status. Until fairly recent times the oil used in watches could turn to goo after a number of years. The modern oils that we use should be good for a very long time. In my shop we do a lot of clean and oil jobs, which do not always end up with anything needing further attention. In the old days, the watchmaker had to completely dis-assemble the watch and clean all the parts, but with the more modern ultra-sonic cleaners we can clean the watch without taking it completely apart. The movement still has to be removed from the case, the hands removed, the dial removed along with the hour and sometimes the second hand (fourth) wheel. We clean the dial and case separately, but use an open bath sonic cleaner for that operation also. If you buy an old watch that has had the face cleaned in a ultra-sonic bath, inspect it VERY carefully for hairline cracks on the dial. The ultra-sound takes the dirt out of the cracks and it usually takes a four power or more loupe to find the cracks. The same goes for gold filled or plated cases, gold and brass, when highly polished are very hard to tell apart, and you can get stuck with a case with a lot of brassing if you don't look very carefully after it has been polished! Thanks for reading this and be careful when buying old watches!

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Friday, January 9, 2009

What is a watch fob?

I notice that a lot of people have confused the watch chain with the watch fob. A watch fob is a special pocket that is used to carry a watch, or more commonly called a watch pocket. This is something that has been sewn to Levi jeans since before indoor plumbing. A fob is also a short chain or ribbon attached to a watch. The most common usage in our language is an object that is attached to the chain which is attacked to the watch itself. There are all sorts of fobs, rlk and bear teeth, rabbits feet, fraternal emblems, small pen knives, etc.. So, if you see a picture of a watch and chain that says in the text that the watch has a fob, that is really not correct.

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Thursday, January 8, 2009

Tourbillon - Fact & Fiction

Introduction: Who Invented the Tourbillon, Why, When & Where ?

The Tourbillon is a device used in watches & clocks to counteract the effects of gravity on the accuracy of watches. The tourbillon was invented in 1795 by Abraham Louis Breuget, the great French watch engineer and designer.

All watch movements are affected to a greater or lesser extent by gravity. The least effect is in solid state movements, such as electronic digital watches, and the greatest effect is in mechanical movements, such as wind up or automatic movements. Breuget invented the tourbillon to ensure greater accuracy in mechanical watch movements by counteracting gravity.

Tourbillons counteract gravity by rotating the balance wheel of a watch or clock through 360 degrees.

In Breuget's day all watches and clocks, except sundials, were mechanical. With very few exceptions (there were a few wrist watches but these were very rare) watches were pocket watches which stayed in one position most of the time. Imagine a pocket watch kept tucked upright in a man's vest pocket or a lady's handbag, the only time it changes position is when it's taken out by the owner to check the time.

The effect of gravity on a watch or clock kept in one position all the time, like a pocket watch, is particularly noticeable on the escapement, especially the balance which rocks back and forth. This can lead to inaccuracies. Breuget's solution was the tourbillon.

Today, tourbillon movements are mostly found in wrist watches, which is pure vanity because most people keep their hands in near constant motion thereby providing the changes in position required to offset the effects of gravity on the watch movement.

In a tourbillon movement, usually just the balance wheel and escapement is rotated. Typically the tourbillon is incorporated as a design feature of the watch or clock, mostly at the 6 O'Clock position where this delightful piece of minature engineering can be seen pursuing its never ending race around and around. Occasionally, the entire movement is rotated, as in the mid-19th Century US made "poor man's tourbillon" a pocket watch in which the entire movement rotated through 360 degrees within its case.

II. Who Makes Tourbillons ?

Historically and also today tourbillon movements are among the most expensive and exclusive watch movements available. They are typically associated with the most expensive offerings of the most expensive and exclusive watch manufacturers.

However, there has been a quiet revolution in the manufacture of tourbillons. China has entered the market and a number of Chinese watch manufacturers are manufacturing tourbillons at affordable prices. Some of these are offered on e-bay, some are offered as bona fide Chinese tourbillons; others are mutton dressed up as lamb and sold as German or Swiss Made, or even occasionally as knock offs of famous brands. Buyer beware !

Chinese made tourbillons can often be identified because of their use of a solid rhodium plated or polished steel metal bird shaped frame for the tourbillon. If you see such a shape in a watch being sold as a famous name brand, beware it almost certainly is not original ! Well so I thought until today (5 July 2007) today I saw a diamond enhanced white gold wrist watch by a very well known swiss brand founded in the early 18th Century and guess what ? It uses at the 12 o'clock position what looks to my eye like a PTS Resources Chinese made tourbillon. If so the venerable Swiss brand's profit margin must be phenomenal. Forgive me for not mentioning the brand's name.

Watch out also for fake tourbillons, these are not tourbillons at all but watches with an exposed balance wheel mounted under a tourbillon style cross bar and sometimes hidden beneath a cage which rotates 360 degrees while the balance wheel beneath it remains in the same position as it rocks back and forth. Some unscrupulious or ignorant sellers sell these as tourbillons, they are not. Buyer beware !

III. Concluding comments and price guide

Today if someone wants a super accurate watch s/he will buy a 99 cent electronic digital watch. It's likely to be ugly but it will tell you the time.

We don't buy mechanical watches because they are accurate. We buy them for all sorts of reasons, maybe as a status symbol, maybe because we like the mechanism and the intricacy of engineering.

Apparently 75% of Swiss Tourbillons are made by one manufacturer while some three or four Chinese manufacturers, PTS Resources, Beijing Watch Co, SeaGull and Innovate dominate the Chinese made tourbillon market. The finest Swiss made tourbillons are streets ahead of Chinese made tourbillons but don't knock the Chinese product, some of them are well made and unlike their Swiss cousins, Chinese tourbillons are affordable, sometimes just 1% or less of the price of a Swiss tourbillon.

Here's a little history of Chinese made tourbillons which I've learnt from Chinese tourbillon manufacturers and by rummaging around in Hong Kong's flea markets: The first Chinese made tourbillons were apparently mantle clocks made in the 1950s. They are glass cased clocks, vaguely reminiscent of Jaeger LeCoultre's Atmos clocks, with a brass framed skeleton jewelled movement, the tourbillon frame was large and made of aluminum.

Beijing Watch Co. and Mr Kiu Tai Yu of Hong Kong's World Wide House both claim the distinction of being the first to make tourbillons in China. Indeed Mr Kiu claims to be the first in Asia.

I know Mr Kiu and for watch enthusiasts visiting Hong Kong, I thoroughly recommend a visit to his little store on the 3rd floor of World Wide House. His tourbillons have won praise from Swiss master craftsmen and prizes at the Basel Fair, the premier international watch fair. Mr Kiu's tourbillons are said to be in the same category as the top Swiss made pieces.

Beijing Watch Co, at this year's Hong Kong watch & Clock Fair (2006) showed a piece the like of which I've never seen before and the purpose of which I cannot fathom, unless it be conspicuous consumption, a double tourbillon, two tourbillons mounted side by side, one at 6 O'Clock and the other at 9 O'Clock. Their tourbillons are finely chased and engraved by hand, often in rose gold. They feature a tourbillon frame in rose gold shaped like a bird with curved wings.

I understand that some of the master craftsmen for at least some Chinese tourbillon manufacturers come from Russia, I don't know whether or not this is true but it opens up some intriguing thoughts.

I have seen some beautifully engineered Chinese made tourbillons using the classic Breuget style frame or cage, these seemed to be finely made and elegant. Many of the components used in Chines made tourbillons come from Switzerland. At least two German companies are selling Chinese made tourbillons under their brand names and I for one will not be surprised if European tourbillon manufacturers do not soon outsource part or all of their ebauche assembly to China.

Personally I love the complexity and engineering genius in a fine mechanical watch. I can't afford a top of the line Swiss tourbillon and even if I could, I would not buy one. But at a few hundred US dollars, a sterling silver cased, saphire crystal lensed Chinese made tourbillon is affordable to many and if you like mechanical wrist watches, I thoroughly reccommend them !

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Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Removing scratches from jewelry

Removing scratches from jewelry usually requires professional restoration, and while you can remove surface scratches at home, professional restoration produces better results without risking more harm to the jewelry. This is a case where a little prevention goes a long way toward avoiding the cure. In fact, most minor scratches are preventable, because it is through improper care and inappropriate polishing or buffing that many of these scratches occur.

Preventing Scratches

Start by limiting exposure to substances that cause a film and tarnish your jewelry. Substances such as hair spray, hair mousse, air fresheners, and perfume can leave a residue on jewelry that is difficult, if not impossible, to remove. Even soap from your morning shower can leave a dull film on your jewelry. If you wait until after you have finished your daily grooming routine to don your jewelry, you won't expose it to the caustic chemicals in these products.

Never use a household cleaner or any cleaner not specifically formulated for use with jewelry to clean your jewelry. When you use water to clean your jewelry, distilled or filtered water is your best choice. Keep your jewelry away from chlorine, and remove it before swimming or entering a hot tub. Use a jewelry polishing cloth instead of a paper towel, towel, or other material. Always rub lengthwise, never in a circular motion, to avoid scratching jewelry.

Improper storage can also cause scratches. First, ensure that your jewelry is bone dry before storing it. Instead of piling jewelry into a cardboard box, a drawer or a jewelry box, give your jewelry some space. Use storage that contains dividers. Store your silver with an anti-tarnish agent or in a tightly sealed zipper plastic bag. Don't store diamonds with any other jewelry. Diamonds will scratch softer jewelry.

Before you use an ultrasonic cleaning machine or a commercial cleaner, check with your jeweler. Each is suitable for some stones and metals, but none is suitable for all stones and metals. Your jeweler can guide you in safe home cleaning, and one phone call can save you an expensive commercial restoration.

Removing Scratches

In general, you only want to try to remove surface scratches yourself. Attempting to remove deeper scratches yourself may result in ruining the finish, and that may require professional restoration. It's cheaper to have deep scratches restored professionally from the beginning.

A jewelers rouge polishing cloth contains jewelers rouge, the substance that jewelers use to polish jewelry when they make it. The impregnated rouge, made from finely ground stone particles, removes small scratches from metal jewelry as it cleans, restoring it to its original luster and brilliance. When using it on silver, it buffs the tarnish off without scratching the underlying silver. The cloth will last approximately two years, and even if it turns black, you can continue to use it. You cannot wash the cloth, because washing removes the jewelers rouge from the cloth. Do not use anything with jewelers rouge on stones or pearls.

Just Don't Do It

You may have heard that you can clean sterling silver with toothpaste and a toothbrush. Brushed silver is the only kind of silver on which you should use a toothbrush. In fact, if you attempt to polish brush silver with a jewelers rouge cloth or a chamois, you may eventually wear away the satin finish.

Don't attempt to remove scratches from pearls or platinum. Pearls are considered soft gems, and you'll only make matters worse by removing the finish if you attempt to remove scratches yourself. Platinum presents the opposite problem. It's a very rare, hard, dense metal, and your jeweler is equipped to remove scratches without damaging the metal.

One final word of caution: you can find anything on the Internet, and that includes professional jewelers' supplies. In most cases, you are asking for trouble by ordering these products and attempting a do-it-yourself repair at home. Your jeweler is highly trained and experienced in their use, and you are not. If you find scratches on your jewelry, you can make matters far worse by trying to remove the scratches yourself. Fine jewelry is expensive. When you buy fine jewelry, invest in its upkeep, and it will serve you the rest of your life. Invest time in preventative care, and you won't have to worry about removing scratches.

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Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Oil-free watches are a reality, but how good are they?

It has been described as the Holy Grail of traditional watchmaking: a watch that runs without a drop of lubricant. For as long as clocks and watches have been made, oils have been essential to lubricate, protect and keep their intricate mechanisms moving.

Yet oils change with temperature and use - or lack of use - and, more importantly, degrade over time, affecting the precision and reliability of the watch.

In the 1970s, watchmakers experimented by using plastic parts in some oil-free movements; but the plastic wore quickly and the watches did not stand the test of time.

Now, the advent of silicon and nanotechnologies may give watchmakers the breakthrough that they have been searching for.

"These new technologies offer possibilities which seemed unthinkable a few years ago," said Rolf Schnyder, president of Ulysse Nardin. "These are giant steps for the industry."

Ulysse Nardin, along with Jaeger-LeCoultre, has been one of the leaders in researching and developing the new materials.

"Different brands like Ulysse Nardin, Breguet and Patek Philippe have taken different approaches in their search for a movement that will work forever," said Carson Chan, managing director and watch specialist at Bonhams, Hong Kong.

In 2001, Ulysse Nardin first announced a major breakthrough with the Freak. A revolutionary design, the Freak featured two escapement wheels which were etched from silicon instead of the usual steel, and needed no lubrication. So far the company has sold 650 of the original model and has launched several additional versions, the most recent being the Blue Phantom.

"The escapement in silicon has proven to be very reliable," Schnyder said. Since 2006 the company has offered the technology to other watchmakers through Sigatec, a joint venture with Mimotec, a Swiss microcomponents maker.

Ulysse Nardin has also experimented with polycrystalline diamond and has patents pending for a balance wheel, hairspring and escapement made in cultured diamond.

"This material is excellent in terms of being very light and antimagnetic," Schnyder said. "It has good impact resistance and friction properties and runs without lubrication. However, it is frightfully expensive to produce."

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the use of lubricant-free ceramic ball bearings in 2002 in its automatic winding mechanisms. Last year, it unveiled its Master Compressor Extreme LAB, which has an entire movement that works without lubrication.

In addition to silicon for the escapement wheel, Jaeger-LeCoultre has experimented with new materials, including carbonitride Easium - used in nuclear engineering - to replace the traditional jewels; a synthetic crystalline black diamond in place of the traditional ruby pallet stones; graphite powder in place of barrel grease; carbon fiber; and platinum iridium.

One example of the Extreme LAB has been made. In severe testing it has continued to operate successfully at temperatures as low as minus 40 degrees Celsius, or minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. "This is a breakthrough, as previously no watch could withstand below 20 degrees Celsius as the oil would freeze," said Xavier Dufoix, managing director of Jaeger-LeCoultre Southeast Asia.

Dufoix said the company planned to produce 20 Extreme LAB watches in the next five years, each retailing at around €190,000, or $300,000. The first is due to be delivered at the end of this year. The limited edition reflects the amount of time and effort taken to manufacture the components with new materials, rather than the cost of the project.

"JLC believes that this technology will set new standards for the entire watchmaking industry in the coming years," Dufoix said, "as this in itself represents a big step forward in the revolution in the standards of watchmaking. But it will take necessary time for the watchmakers and manufacturers to become well-versed in and master this technique."

Most brands have no plans to go completely oil-free, though some have started to incorporate a few oil-free components in their watches. Patek Philippe in 2005 introduced a new Caliber with a high-tech silicon escape wheel for its self-winding Annual Calendar wristwatches, and Audemars Piguet's Cabinet No. 5 model, unveiled in 2006, has a new escapement design that avoids the need to lubricate the pallet stones.

"It is unlikely that all wheels of a Patek Philippe movement will be made of silicon," said a company spokeswoman. "The use of silicon will remain limited to those components in which the specific material's advantages such as low mass, high hardness, antimagnetic behavior, oil-free operation, corrosion resistance, etc., are of crucial importance.

"Any new innovations must bring a real measured benefit of improving the reliability and precision of the movement."

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Monday, January 5, 2009

How to set day date on Bulova Accutron 2182 movement

How to set the date and day of week on Bulova Accutron 2182 movement In order to fast set the date number, pull out the stem and move hour hand to the position between 10 and 11 pm midnight, (just before the 24 hour time change, just before the date advance) and push in the stem and you can now fast advance the date without resistance. If you feel resistance do not force the date advance. Go around to the 10 - 11 position again, push in the stem and try again, as you may only be at the 12 and not 24 hour position. if you miss it, go around again. Do not force the fast date advance. To fast advance the day of the week, pull the stem out and advance the hour to midnight, after the day changes, back the hour hand (counter clockwise) to the 6 pm position and go back to midnight and repeat as necessary. When backed off enough you should hear a slight click. To assure you are in the correct day date sequence, set the day of the week and date one day prior to what you want to show after setting the correct time. Than in the time set mode (stem pulled out) turn the watch stem so the hands move clockwise and advance the date to the proper day and date. You are now at midnight. Continue to advance to the time you desire.

Official Bulova Instructions: Directions for setting the ACCUTRON Day and Date Model I. Follow these instructions in sequence for "first time" setting: Set The Day Of The Week 1. Pull crown "out" when second hand reaches 60 second marker. All hands will stop. 2. Move hands forward until day changes. (This establishes midnight.) 3. Rotate hands backward to approximately 5:30 and then forward until day changes again. 4. Repeat process until proper day appears (disregard the date.) Set The Time 5. With the crown still in "out" position, continue to turn hands forward until minute hand is slightly ahead of desired minute marker; then turn back to this marker. (If setting the watch after 12:00 noon, advance hands an additional 12 hours.) 6. When time standard being used to set watch reaches 60th second, push crown "in." Set The Date 7. With crown in its normal "in" position, turn it clockwise (away from you) to desired date. Note: see above if resistance is felt. Note: The date will advance automatically at midnight, provided a.m. and p.m. have been established (step 2). On the first day of each month, following a month with less than 31 days, advance the date manually. II. The following instructions are for any desired resetting of the time, the date, or the day: To Reset The Time Hands may be turned in either direction. Exact hand synchronization may be achieved as follows: 1. Pull crown "out" when sweep-second hand is exactly at 60 second marker. All hands will stop. 2. Turn hands until minute hand is slightly ahead of desired minute marker; then turn backward to this marker. When time standard, by which you are setting your timepiece, reaches the 60th second push crown "in" (without turning). All hands will start instantly. To Reset or Advance The Date With the crown in normal "in" position, turn it clockwise (away from you) to the desired date. To Reset The Day Follow sequence for "first time" setting.

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